August 22, 2009 - September 6, 2009
August 22, 2009 - Seafood Shack Marina - Cortez, Florida

I'm getting a bit of a late start on the computer this morning. Once again, I woke up at 3 AM and got up, but this time, after doing
email and a little web research, I went back to bed and slept until 7:30 AM. Then I kind of swung into things, as it were. I'm still
doing that sort of stuff, cleaning up in the boat, sorting things out and preparing for big work in here. Once again, money looms
it's ugly ( ugly when you're poor, stunning when you're rich ) head. Fortunately, my savings for haul-out are good enough to dip
into as and when needed.

The forward area of the boat - I'm finding plenty of time to think as I sort through stuff - is a complex logistics problem of what
must be done and what can be done first, second, etc. The very WORST job of all, constructing the holding tank, is REALLY
demanding that it be completed prior to mounting the hot water heater, which needs to be in place to complete the water
plumbing. I also need to make the pattern for the head/shower wall and install the fiberglass paneling prior to installing the
shower/head water manifold. Rats. That's it. As soon as I finish around the engine area, before I do the electrical, I have to make
that holding tank. Then I can install all that other stuff, including the head, shower, macerator, deck pump-out, holding tank vent
and finally, the head door. The list.

1.) Wire in engine and connect cables.
2.) Install buss bar distribution bars and big ground bar.
3.) Install fuel filter and fuel lines.
4.) Install Balmar Regulator.
5.) Make patterns for fiberglass panels.
6.) Find and gather all equipment spec sheets and instructions.   
( I can't do the Balmar until I locate the wiring diagram that came with it. )   Done
7.) Make and install 4 special hangers for aft water tanks.   Done

Made it through the stacks of paperwork onboard and found the Balmar manual, along with a hundred other things, including
the renewal form for my documentation which is due bu August 31, 2009. By a stroke of luck, I also found the stamps to stick on
it. That will be going out today. I added the hangers for the aft water tanks because the parts were right there on the table and I
could get it out of the way right now, so I did. Time to eat.

Went to Ace and got grommets and metric bolts and now my belt guard on the engine is finally secured with all four bolts instead
of just two. Only 20 years or so to fix that item. I also did some more engine wiring and ordered stuff for the holding tank. I'll do
more engine wiring and the big cables and some other stuff before quitting for the day, but it's already 6:30 PM.

I got everything done on the engine except the shift cable. I'll make that a separate item tomorrow. It's almost 9 PM. Enough for
today. Some things take longer than others, but I'm not just working flat out. Jim from the 30 foot Morgan Motorsailer came
over and talked for a while and some things, well, I'm improving as I go.
August 23, 2009 - Seafood Shack Marina - Cortez, Florida

It's 5:40 AM and I've slept enough. Long work days - even though I'm not actually thrashing like crazy all day - and poor TV
programing lead to early nights. I turned in at 9:30 last night and I tend to drop right off. I should start right off with attaching
the shift cable this morning, then do more wiring in and around the engine room. I might also want to try doing something with
the 'drier' pump I'm thinking about installing just aft of the raw water inlet that will put a rigid tube at the lowest part of the bilge
and will be able to suck it completely dry. The reason for that is smell - I don't want any bad smells in the boat, and the average
bilge eventually smells like an open sewer if you can't clean it and pump it dry. I have the pump and it's not a big deal.

1.) Connect engine shift cable.  
2.) Install buss bar distribution bars and big ground bar.   Done
3.) Install fuel filter and fuel lines.   Working
4.) Install Balmar Regulator.
5.) Make patterns for fiberglass panels.
6.) Connect Exhaust! (forgot)   

I made a water system diagram this morning. It was way to early to start work, so I did that instead.
The lines are not to my liking. I have to get into the Corel Draw and find
out how to make lines between 2 and 8. I would like the water lines to
be about twice as big as they are. And you'd think I'd remember that
black print on a red background doesn't work here for some reason. I'll
make the corrections later. On with the list.

Okay, I changed it and I'll bet no one even saw the other version. Geoff
also recommends that I put another sediment filter between the
manifold and the Groco pump to prevent damage to the vanes in the
pump and clogging of the pressure switch. It's a good idea so I'll do it.
Now I have to rework the whole drawing ( almost ) again.

Okay, that's it. I'm getting better at this. It took all of about ten minutes.

The big ground buss bar has been a different problem. It is a solid
copper bar about 16 or 18 inches long, 1/4 inch thick and an inch wide.
It's been used before so there are holes all over it. You'll see a picture.
Anyway, I went for larger cable bolts and bigger circuit screws, meaning
lots of drilling and tapping. It took over an hour and my miserable and
rust taps died like flies. I just barely made it through. Now, I have to cut
a starboard backplate, attach it, and mount the bar in the engine room.
'Engine room' may not be the right name. I got stuck in there this
morning and almost had to shred my shorts to get out. The crotch of my
pants got caught on the alternator mount.
I forgot to drill the 4 mounting holes in the starboard baseplate for the ground buss bar. It will only take a minute. On the left is
one of the 4 hangers I made to secure the top ends of the aft water tanks. They are attached to the bottom of the 5 inch bolts that
secure the toe rails. The real purpose of using the little blocks is as chafe protection. I mean, there they were on the table without
a use in the world except potential landfill. Bingo, last chance to avoid the great smelly abyss.

Donny and Barb just called as I was putting away the tools on the dock before this nasty cell heading our way gets here. They
were approaching their anchorage in Titusville where they intend to stay and watch the nighttime launch of the Space Shuttle.
We were both busy and will call back at 3 PM, when they are anchored and I am relaxing and watching golf.

The big buss bar is finished and installed. Now, I'm reconfiguring the fuel filter/tank selector switch locations to make it easier to
deal with. I'll be installing it at the same time.

I've gotten a lot of good work done today. The tank selector fuel valve is now mounted ( nicely ) in the battery switch box/step.
There is only one more item going in there - the windlass circuit breaker. I'm mounting the fuel filter in a completely different
location as well. It will now be on the back of the engine instrument panel, to the left, and high enough to service and see easily.
It's 6:30 PM now and it's been a full day of work. Tomorrow will be another day. See you then.

Couldn't stop. Just struggled for 45 minutes, but got the fuel filter mounted solidly. Tomorrow I'll finish the fuel plumbing and
fill and bleed the system, then on to completing the console to engine wiring, the Balmar regulator, and fire up the engine.
August 24, 2009 - Seafood Shack Marina - Cortez, Florida

Once in a great while I can't fall asleep at night. Some people say, 'Well, you were over-tired, or drank coffee, or ate a chocolate
energy bar', but I know the truth. It's because yesterday I said, 'I fall right off to sleep'. I'm telling you, it's no wonder people
believe in Horoscopes and Palm Readers. Anyway, I fell off sometime between 12:30 and 1 AM and woke up at 7 AM, so, good
enough. I have to add something to the list that I just noticed yesterday. I extended the pressure control switch on the Groco
pump to facilitate mounting it under the sink. I cut the wires in the process and now they need to be extended and connected.

1.) Install fuel filter and fuel lines.   
2.) Install Balmar Regulator.   Done
3.) Make patterns for fiberglass panels.
4.) Connect Groco pressure switch.
5.) Install terminal strip for cockpit speakers.   
6.) Hang top corners of aft water tanks.
7.) Connect console/engine wiring.   

I asked Donny and Barb if it would be alright to assemble a few pages and post their letters to me as they cruise. The E-mails are
mostly pictures with descriptions by Barbara, and I thought some of the readers would enjoy them.
The fuel system is done, though not filled and bled yet, but I need to get on to other things before that. I want to get the electrical
done in this area so I can locate, install and connect the Balmar regulator.

Geoff and Henry were supposed to leave at 'first light' this morning, but they ( read 'Geoff' ) are struggling with some battery and
electrical issues.

Geoff and Henry finally got out of here. I bled the fuel system and the engine will soon be ready to fire. I just need to complete
the console to engine wiring and the Balmar.

Okay, all the instrument and console wiring is completed. All that is left before firing the engine up is the Balmar Regulator, so
it's time to swing right into it. I also need to make a nice heavy jumper to go from the ground buss to the multiple grounds of
all the bilge pumps. Still waiting on the relays, but it's not a problem or a rush.

IT'S ALIVE!!! Okay, actually, it's still a boat - but I JUST shut the engine off after two years ( or more ) of silence. One tiny water
leak - fixed in a minute, loose clamp - and lot of cranking and bleeding - air in the lines, but it seems okay now. I'll go over
everything as I get closer to leaving. I was in a hurry to run it today, so I forgot to install the jumpers to activate the Tachometer
and both voltmeters. Easy and I'll have them done by tonight when I test out the instrument lights and dimmer. Oh, yeah, and
the compass light and GPS.

It's 7:15 PM and I might not be back here tonight. But the engine is running. :-) Oh, yeah.

Okay, I'm back. I ran all the wires I had to and also the main ground for the instrument panel. Everything works. Everything. I
have to adjust the tach - it has a rotary switch or two on the back - but other than that, I'm very happy.
August 25, 2009 - Seafood Shack Marina - Cortez, Florida

The instrument lighting is RED!!! Go figure. Never thought to check, but it makes sense, and my 'slapped together' dimmer
works great. I still need to mount the coolant overflow tank for the engine, and I heard an odd noise last night while running the
engine - a squeal, I thought - which could be the new alternator belt, or the toothed serpentine belt rubbing inside the newly
'four-bolt' mounted belt guard, or who knows what. After I mount and service the overflow tank, I'll run the engine much longer
today and see what I can find out. You DO realize that Falcon is a bottom-cleaning away from being able to leave here, don't you?
Oh, yeah, I have to calibrate the tachometer, too. On to the list.

1.) Mount coolant overflow tank.   
2.) Tie up and secure all wires and cables around engine.   Done
3.) Make patterns for fiberglass panels.
4.) Connect Groco pressure switch.   
5.) Hang top corners of aft water tanks.   Done
6.) Clean up dock and boat.   Working
7.) Calibrate Tachometer.   Done

I've also been testing stuff related to getting the ceiling done. That is starting to get my interest because I have foam and rolls of
material underfoot everywhere. It's almost ready to go. Now, to do some work on Donny and Barb's pages.

Got a good start on the Donny/Barb pages and Paul helped me calibrate the tachometer. I'm not convinced it's accurate, but it
gives me a reference and that's all I really need. I don't know how Columbus ever found America without a tach. The squealing
was the alternator belt. I tightened it and will have to replace it with some kind of super duty version, or get a double groove
pulley for the alternator and have double groove engine and water pump pulleys made. Jim, on the Morgan pilothouse, said he
had a neighbor who might help me out there.
Everything is working just fine. I re-installed the tach and tied up all the wiring and may even have found a solution for the
'where the hell can I put this stupid coolant overflow bottle' question. Right now, it's outside the engine room on the bulkhead
beside the engine. I may just have a cure for that in an old aluminum pivoting TV mount, where I can swing it into the engine
room for travel and all that, but swing it right out for servicing or access to the fuel filter. I'll have to mull that over some more.

Meanwhile, I still have to clean up the boat ( dock is done ) and get those tanks done and the water pump pressure switch.

It's 3:45 and I'm about done for the day - I think - maybe not - I'm still cleaning and organizing. I spent a little time talking to a
guy from the Fire Department on the dock. He was doing a routine inspection of fire fighting standpipes and fire extinguishers. It
turns out he's partners with someone on a Morgan 33T Sloop. Other than some cleaning up, eating and drinking plenty of water -
and, of course, plotting my NEXT course - I'm off duty for the afternoon. Or, evening. Whatever.
August 26, 2009 - Seafood Shack Marina - Cortez, Florida

I got up at 5 AM because 'why not - I'm awake' and besides, I went to bed early. The inside of the boat is still a mess and I should
do laundry today and just clean up. I've also decided to hang a few more wire clips - I should put a picture of one of those things
here somewhere - Up in the bow area to facilitate lacing the heavy line from the distribution panel to the watermaker. I'm also
going to lace the Groco pump power feed beneath the computer desktop to prevent having to make a penetration through the
galley counter top right next to the sink. It just seems like a better idea.

It's 6 PM and it has been a slow day for me. I've enjoyed it immensely. The laundry is done. I've run the engine again and bled the
injectors while it was running and the last ( #4 ) unit cleared and started running at idle ( finally ).

I also think I have to check the glow plugs in the engine. I might have burned them out during the starting drill on the first day.
They are the fast heat type and can't stand too much time on. They aren't expensive, and I think I have some spares anyway.
August 27, 2009 - Seafood Shack Marina - Cortez, Florida

The weather reports all call for lots of rain and some violent thunder cells today, but we'll see. It has been SO weird lately, with a
front just stuck almost right over us going diagonally from Tampa to Jacksonville, producing lots of rain and lightning. I can't say
it has actually hindered me much - the cloud cover is nice - but the bouts of rain do dampen things. :-)

I took a bunch of photos of the inside of the boat last night. It's just about time to begin the finishing in here and I want to have
some photos for 'before and after' shots as it progresses. Some of the giant lumps of 'stuff in my way' are the materials for
finishing the interior and I would dearly love to be done moving those things around in the boat.

It seriously poured like a cow peeing on a flat rock after I closed off last night. Gratefully, and I couldn't be more serious about
this, there are ZERO leaks in Falcon. Every last tiny little drip has been addressed and fixed. Of course, I DO still have the two
side running lights to lead inside. They are each just a 14 gauge pair and will only need a small hole, but I'll need to seal it well so
it won't leak FOREVER because if it does, I'm not apt to notice until it's done serious deck-rot damage. Okay, I suppose I have to
make a list.

1.) Make patterns for fiberglass panels.
2.) Lead in running light cables and seal.   
3.) Check and replace engine preheaters as needed.   Parts Ordered
4.) Make and install all remaining border pieces in ceiling.
5.) Install bilge pump relays and finalize circuits.   
6.) Install 'dryer' bilge pump.
7.) Make and install engine bilge catch-net.
8.) Cut paint around 'painted shut' aft deck hatches.   
9.) Install last 4 wiring 'clips'.   Done
10.) Install shower sump pump.
11.) Reroute VHF power to Engine buss and connect.
12.) Install lighter plug on dinghy bilge pump wire. Done

That's more than enough. Some things are just on there because I might stall on something and need something else to do while
I think about it. There are more things I'd like to put on the list, but they can wait. Everything is moving along nicely. You will
NOT FREAKIN' believe the inside of this boat that I have been living in for YEARS. I don't believe it and I live here. You'll see in
the 'before/after' pictures later on. It's like living under someones kitchen sink and all the household cleaning supplies are still
there and every time you want to change position you have to move something and sometimes the damn sink leaks. But it's fun -
don't get me wrong. Well, it's better than living outside. Okay, it's better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick.

Yes, I started right off on something not on the list so I added the items and finished them. The dinghy had water in it ( rain )
and I had to pump it out.

It's 1 PM and I just returned from West Marine where I picked up the 5 gallon ( actually 4.35 gallons ) jug of West epoxy resin. I
also stopped at the mail room and got the Allied Electric panel meters I ordered and a couple of awesome cards from my sons
families. They both have little boys now - Aiden and Logan. Logan is brand new and has considerably more hair than me. Aiden is
two and can outrun me. Leigh, my daughter, has three girls, Mikayla, Corrine, and Arianna, ages 10, 9 and 7.

I just took a run to American Discount Auto Parts and ordered the 4 glow plugs for the engine. Same price as the lowest priced
ones I found on line and no shipping/handling charges. I can pick them up tomorrow morning. I also went to Home Depot and
got the electrical connectors I need to install the bilge pump relays. I can't believe it's only 20 past 2 PM. It seems like it's been a
long day already.

The overcast and sprinkles have left and the sun is shining once again. It's hot and muggy and not easy to work in. The work I did
in the bow today was hot and stuffy. The price you pay for a water-tight bow is a lack of ventilation. I still got the work done,
though, and one of the other jobs I can now add to the list is to lace the rest of the cabling throughout the boat for all the rest of
the electrical systems and devices. Also, now that I have the distribution box panel meters, I can begin laying out the panel itself
and put that construction in line on the list. I should really get started on the finishing of the cabin ceiling.
August 28, 2009 - Seafood Shack Marina - Cortez, Florida

They are still predicting a lot of rain today. Thia weather pattern is nothing like the 'usual' Florida weather for this time of year.
Grin and bear it. At least my work is all - or 'mostly' - inside the boat. Cutting wood and grinding become a weather problem, but
I can work around it. I've decided to run a section of 3/4 inch PVC pipe in the upper rear corner under the computer desk as a
conduit for the 8 gauge Groco pump power cables. That way, I can still make a good epoxy fillet in that spot for good strength and
replace the wiring or add another if I ever have to. It's a little bit of a pain in the ass, but not much.

The time is coming when I will need to build whatever structures are left to be made inside the boat so I can fiberglass them in
and begin the 'lower' stage finishing. These include:

1.) A cabinet/counter in the head that will house the Village Marine watermaker.
2.) The combination ice box/chart table beneath the electrical panel.
3.) The stove counter and cabinet opposite item #2.
And eventually:
4.) The engine room lid/companionway ladder.

There are other little things ( maybe not so little ) like shelves and drawers and cabinet doors, but the big ones really DO need to
get done. Now, for todays list.

1.) Make patterns for fiberglass panels.
2.) Check and replace engine preheaters as needed.  
3.) Make and install all remaining border pieces in ceiling.
4.) Install bilge pump relays and finalize circuits.   
5.) Install 'dryer' bilge pump.   Working
6.) Make and install engine bilge catch-net.
7.) Install shower sump pump.

One of the first things I'll do today is to run down and get those glow plugs and finish the engine work. I should also complete
the bilge pump relays and get something going on the 'dryer' pump. The reason I call this the 'dryer' pump is because it sucks out
the very last drops ( not quite, but VERY close ) of water out of the bilge. I want a dry bilge, where bacteria doesn't grow.

Well, this has been a fun morning. I started by picking up the new glow plugs and proceeded to do the change on the engine.
Yeah, well, no deal. It was impossible without removing the alternator, the entire injection system ( minus the injectors
themselves ) and while I was doing that, water was leaking onto my foot from the raw water pump. Perfect. Just freakin' perfect.
This is also exacerbated by the geared pulley on the injection pump just flat refusing to come off. I had a puller so tight it was
squeaking and I was cranking on it with one eye closed and a severe squint on the other when it finally popped. One of the glow
plug holes tried to cross thread and  - yeow, cold front with lots of wind and rain just slammed into us, straight out of the west -
anyway, I had to clear a small defect and carefully start that one. Once started, it went in smoothly, as did all the others. I
re-installed the fuel injection, the timing belt, blah, blah, blah, then removed the raw water pump.

Well, you'll just laugh your asses off - I know I did. It wasn't the raw water pump leaking, it was the tiny fitting near the radiator
cap where the overflow bottle connects. Yeah, yeah, that's funny. So then, I check the four old glow plugs so I can keep the one or
two good ones for spares, guess what? They are ALL good. No, no. I'm sure. I even burned myself on one, just for good measure.
Naturally, I think there must be something wrong with the glow plug solenoid, but a test for voltage at the glow plugs when
activating it says otherwise. Despite all the signs that said the glow plugs were bad, it was a pure miss. Mind you, I went over the
subject on line in the VW Diesel forums before I finally went out and ordered them. It was a slam dunk. Wrong. Five hours of
almost wasted time, plus the cost of a new set of glow plugs. Oh, well, at least I know. And I DID correct the mounting of the big
alternator, and I'll be fixing the rusty fasteners on the raw water pump, and fixing the overflow nozzle. Rats.

Okay, so I dropped about 367 parts and tools into the bilge because I am rapidly improving my 'dodder' quotient because that's
just what retired people do to kill time in the afternoons waiting for the early bird specials to be served. Anyway, it has inspired
me to move item #6 up to the top of the list. Lunch and then more work.

I ate and struggled with the fitting for the raw water pump and the outlet side of the inlet strainer, finally giving up for a bit and
watching the last hour of 'Resident Evil: Apocalypse'. Then I went to Home Depot for two lousy fittings - $10 - and stopped at
Taco Bell and ate 5 tacos. I think they ought to have a thing, you know, where, if you order 5, you get one more free for a
six-pack. Anyway, got back here and put everything together, using the fitting I just bought to make the inlet water line from the
inlet strainer to the raw water pump, short, tight, and out of the way - making plenty of room for the soon-to-come dryer pump.
Oh, and yes, of course I started the engine and it busted off ( started ) instantly and without clouds of smoke, so changing the
glow plugs made a profound improvement. Go figure.

Okay, I'm done for the day. Worked hard all day without hardly nicking the list, but some days are just like that.
August 29, 2009 - Seafood Shack Marina - Cortez, Florida

I couldn't stop last night, so I pulled out the Groco pump because I have to get that filter mounted between the pump and the
water tank manifold. It's all going to work out JUST FINE and I discovered that, not only did I have a PERFECT sediment filter
for this location in the truck, but I also have the one to put on the dock hose to filter the water coming into the boat from shore.
Very nice.
I got a little sticker shock when pricing the filter cartridges for these at
Home Depot yesterday, but considering what they do and how long they
last, they're worth it. These two filters in particular are strictly for
cleaning up all the water either coming on board from dockside, or
entering the pump from the tanks. It's possible that I may, at some time,
incorporate a rain catching system and I'm not sure yet how to, or even if
I can, filter THAT water before it goes into the tanks. I hope I can.
Rainwater is not always as clean as we'd like to think. Especially if it's
running down off my 'catch all dirt and bird poop' sails. Yes, I KNOW it
doesn't sound appetizing. That's why I figured I'd only catch rain in the
two aft tanks and use that water for washing clothes and the boat and
hosing the salt off me. The two forward tanks are for 'sweet' water -
meant for drinking, cooking, showering, etc.

On to the list.
1.) Make patterns for fiberglass panels.
2.) Make and install all remaining border pieces in ceiling.
3.) Install bilge pump relays and finalize circuits.   
4.) Install 'dryer' bilge pump.   Working
5.) Make and install engine bilge catch-net.
6.) Install shower sump pump.
7,) Double check engine timing belt tension and re-install belt guard.   
8.) Finish installing pre-Groco filter and re-mount Groco and filter.   Done
9.) Finish windlass power wiring.
10.) Complete windlass remote control device.
11.) Label fuel selector valve positions.
12.) Install 3/4 inch PVC under computer desk.   

It has been POURING for the past hour with no sign of letting up. I just went to Weather Underground and there is a long, thin
line of clouds forming over the gulf and running directly over us. It's almost like science fiction - the clouds are forming about
ten miles off shore and dissipating about ten miles inland. The 'train' is only 1 to 2 miles wide at it's widest, and the Seafood
Shack is bulls-eyed, dead center in the middle of it.

Geoff and Henry's cars disappeared from the parking lot yesterday when I returned from Home Depot, so Geoff is back and
Henry is gone for good. Along with his odd little dog. Talk about bookends. The rain has let up a little so I can open the boat up a
bit and try to get something done.
I ran outside to get the conduit and was going to just let it dry before
installing it, but then I had a problem. I wondered if there was
enough wire in the pieces returned to me by Warren. Warren needed
some 8 gauge wire for his windlass and I loaned him some - when he
returned it he said it was 20 feet of each ( what I gave him ) but it
was actually only 10 feet of each ( true Warren ) - it's JUST enough
to do the Groco pump, so there's no extra to do the bilge pump
relays, which was the whole point of doing this first in the first place.
So, it's done. Now food and on with the show. Oh, yes, and remember
the giant spider in "Return Of The King"? You know, the one that
tried to eat Frodo and Sam. It got wounded and scuttled off.
Remember that? Ever wonder where it went? Under my computer
desk. I had to clear it out before drilling the holes for the pipe. Took
an AK-47 and several hand grenades. The wire is already laced
through. Now I can finish the Groco pump and more of the water
system as well.
The raw water pump IS leaking. It stopped yesterday because I removed the belt and pulley, relieving the side pressure on the
worn bearing. I'll have to see if I can either get a kit for it, or buy a whole new pump. The problem is, a new pump is about $350.
My forward progress here is going to grind to a halt if I run into too many more unscheduled expenses. I have to do some more
Internet research to see if I can find a good rebuild kit for this pump.
August 30, 2009 - Seafood Shack Marina - Cortez, Florida

I'm still a little rocked by the need to spend another $300 right now on a raw water pump. The main reason is, there is no
possible solution for the failure of a raw water pump at a critical time. If I am working my way to shelter in heavy weather and
the pump fails completely, it could mean the end of the boat and me. Yes, of course, I could rig the Groco pump with the
windlass remote, turn on the pump and fit a hose from the open sink faucet to the raw water engine inlet, then use the windlass
remote to feed just enough water through the raw water channel to prevent overheating. It would work for as long as my fresh
water held out. The problem is, I would need to rig it, which would take at least 15 minutes if everything worked right, and all
through the process I would be cursing myself for a fool for not simply replacing the damn pump. So, there it is. I have to do it
and keep the old, obsolete unit as a spare. It leaks, but it still works. Rats.

Oh, well. I no longer have enough money to get the boat hauled and the bottom done. No big deal. These things have to be done
and I'll certainly be able to save the money I need by the time I do the job. You might notice that I'm complaining about the
money and not the pump. The pump was used when I got it in 1986. You just can't whine about it only lasting another 23 years.
This pump is the predecessor to the 'obsolete' version of the pump I am replacing it with. I hope this new one lasts forever. At
least it's a straight bolt-in replacement.

1.) Make patterns for fiberglass panels.
2.) Make and install all remaining border pieces in ceiling.
3.) Install 'dryer' bilge pump.   
4.) Make and install engine bilge catch-net.
5.) Install shower sump pump.
6.) Finish windlass power wiring.   
7.) Complete windlass remote control device.   Done
8.) Label fuel selector valve positions.   Done

Randy is working on 'Moondream', his 39 foot Corbin right next to me. He has decided not to sell it now and instead wants to
finish fixing it up. He's going into the water today to clean his prop and will clean mine as well. In exchange, I'll climb to the very
tippy-top of his mast and reeve a halyard back through it's block. I'll be able to run my prop and gearbox afterwards.

Working is moving along nicely, but my back is sore. I must have pulled or twisted it somehow yesterday, struggling with the
conduit or under the sink with the Groco. One way or another, I put a rink in my lower back and it's making me move like Henry
did when he thought he was walking proud. You know the walk - don't make like you don't.

Finished all the windlass wiring only to have the windlass slow down seriously in the 'UP' direction and pop the circuit breaker.
At the very minimum I have to drain the oil and pull off the motor to see what's wrong. I've rebuilt the thing before and it's not
complex, but it is another pain in the ass and it demands fixing. Rats.

I took the windlass completely apart and found nothing wrong - so far. Gratefully, all the main ( read that, 'expensive' )
components are fine. I'll go over them carefully as I reassemble, but must now go into the motor itself and see if there isn't
something amiss there. Hopefully, it is something minor and inexpensive and can be corrected quickly and easily. I'm confident
it can.

Randy couldn't get my old prop off, but he cleaned it and it works fine. He wanted to put the nut and zinc back on, but I'd rather
wait a bit and get a dive service to come over with a real prop puller to scrape the entire bottom and put my new, good prop on
the boat. I'm not going to do that until closer to the end of the month. I'm still going up his mast to reeve the halyard - he did the
work, after all - fair is fair.
The inside of the Ideal windlass motor after all the
burnt, black gear oil drained out. It is in need of some
serious TLC. All this equipment from Ideal is simple,
straight-forward, and meant to be rebuilt. This one piece
of equipment is my single favorite on the entire boat.
With my little homemade remote switch, I can deploy or
retrieve the anchor from anywhere on the boat,
including the helm, and I love it. I wrote an email to
Ideal sort of explaining the problem and asking for parts
prices and direction ( in case there are other parts I
should change or fix while I'm this far into it ) and I
hope to hear back from them this coming week. Man,
my meager safety stash ( really, my haulout savings ) are
taking a beating this week. No matter. At least I have it
to spend. I can just scrape the bottom every week or so
until I have enough to haul out.

I did make some good headway today, but my back is so
sore I can hardly move. I'm serious. It's difficult to walk.
It's just sore and stiff from wrestling with that conduit
yesterday and then doing all the work I did today without allowing it to rest. It'll heal. It always does.
August 31, 2009 - Seafood Shack Marina - Cortez, Florida

I have to get the gear and bearing off the windlass motor this morning, as well as removing the brush assembly from the other
end, so I can carefully and thoroughly clean all the components and see if I need to order any more bits and pieces that I don't
know about yet. My back is still pretty uncomfortable. I'm going to try some aspirin this morning and see if it helps. I need to see
todays list so I can start getting my head around the items. I can't order the raw water pump until tomorrow. Randy cleaned the
prop yesterday and I started the engine and tried the gearbox - which worked fine - and tried spinning the prop up pretty good -
which also worked fine. This engine/gearbox CHURNS some water, I'm telling you! I think I'll have the diver just put the nut and
a new zinc on and leave it for now. I can change it myself when I haul out.

1.) Make patterns for fiberglass panels.
2.) Make and install all remaining border pieces in ceiling.
3.) Install 'dryer' bilge pump.   
4.) Make and install engine bilge catch-net.   Working
5.) Install shower sump pump.
6.) Lace all remaining electrical cabling and wiring through the boat.   

Maybe I should be adding things like 'Struggle with raw water pump', or 'Flounder with Windlass', but those are maintenance
items at this point and not matters concerning the 'finishing' of the boat project.

Espin called last night when I was in bed and I had to ferret out a flashlight to find my upper plate so I wouldn't sound like
Moms Mabley on the phone. I let him think I was sleepy so he wouldn't start ragging on me. He has completed the sale of his
boat and will be back here by the end of the week to start the search for a new one. That should be fun. He likes to bring me
along so I can say things like, 'No, no, you don't want that. It's like Falcon. Look what Falcon has done to me.' Then he gets scared
and looks for another.

I've got to climb Randy's mast sometime this week, but I may start easy by just getting everything set up first, then just go over
and do it when it isn't steaming hot or getting rocked by wakes. I think I might have spotted a tiny leak in my sink the other day.
We'll see. I like it - it's a good sink.

I just took a ten mile trip to get solder flux. I got a container of each, plumbing and electrical. I'm all over the place right now,
mainly because I'm doing so many things at once. I dug my climbing gear out of the dock box and all the webbing as well. The
climbing gear is to climb Randy's mast and the webbing is to edge and reinforce the mesh net for under the engine. I already took
the climbing rope to Randy's boat and suspended it from the masthead on the spinnaker halyard. When I'm ready to do that it
will be set to go. Right now, it's about 1:45 on a very hot and muggy afternoon. Maybe later when it cools off.

The windlass motor is completely dismantled and I'm waiting for my check and a reply from Ideal. I've been sorting and stringing
wire inside the boat. It's fun, but not that "ha ha, I'm laughing my ass off" kind of fun. It's more like that "this root canal is
almost over" kind of fun.
Above is the engine bilge net. It's enough oversize to droop nicely beneath the engine and catch anything I drop from now on. I'll
finish it with grommets around the edges and use some hooks and some large-headed screws to suspend it. Maybe even just 4
hooks and a bungee cord laced to the edge. I'll test some stuff and decide.

It's 6:05 PM and I just came down from Randy's mast. I think I might be very nearly done for the day, but there is the problem
that I now have ALL the wire sorted and ready and a drawing made of all the wires in the boat, so it's possible that I might find
myself lacing wire and cable here and there during the evening. Things are really beginning to happen fast now and I'm
sometimes finding it hard to stop. That is both the blessing and the curse of living where you work.
September 1, 2009 - Seafood Shack Marina - Cortez, Florida

In 12 days it will be a year since I started this 'Cruising Log' without having started Cruising. At least it's not too far off. My check
is in the bank, so it's time to order the raw water pump. I will also order the new dual belt pulley for the alternator. Getting the
other two pulleys for the crankshaft and engine recirculating pump will be more difficult, but I'll find a way. I can also call Ideal
and order the motor parts in another day or so. I have to get everything really clean and see what I need for sure. I will also
invent and incorporate two devices for the windlass. One is a water trap that hangs below the gear case and screws into the drain
plug hole. It will have a glass bowl and drain valve to drain off water when I see it in there. The second will be a gear case vent at
the top with a wad of bronze wool in it and a catch bottle in case oil escapes. Items to work on down the road. The minimum I
need now is a good motor.

I got a lot done yesterday and I'm glad to get Randy's mast trick out of the way. Of course, my back is still stiff and sore and I
expect my stomach muscles to make some complaint about the climb yesterday - they usually do - but I can't complain about the
lifestyle because it's the activity that keeps me healthy and in shape.

1.) Make patterns for fiberglass panels.
2.) Make and install all remaining border pieces in ceiling.
3.) Install 'dryer' bilge pump.   
4.) Make and install engine bilge catch-net.   Working
5.) Install shower sump pump.
6.) Lace all remaining electrical cabling and wiring through the boat.   

I should really just order stuff today and keep going on the things I'm working on.

Ordered the raw water pump and the alternator pulley. Total cost for everything is about $305 - not bad at all. Also had a few
minutes of conversation with Dave from East Coast Battery ( these are THE people to go to for battery and alternator supplies,
work, and information ) and he told me the Balmar regulator I have has functions to limit the output of the alternator so as to
avoid early failure of the unit. Cool.

I made a work drawing of the wires I'm running so I'd have something to refer to as I pull one and then the next. It's actually
going pretty good. I also just received an email from Ideal and called them and ordered the parts I need. It came to $94.80
without tax, shipping, etc. I didn't ask about those. I mean, what would be the point? I'm going to get the stuff no matter what.
Anyway, that works out for me again. You can't beat Ideal - fixed for around $100.

I've been lacing cable and connecting wires all day and I'm nearing the end. Both of my energy and the number of wires left to
string. Yeah, that's the word. I knew it was there somewhere. Anyway, I did all the longest and hardest first to make the best
possible use of the wire I've held onto. I need to take a rest for a while and finish it up in an hour or two. It's 4:30 PM now.
All the main wiring in the boat is done. There are still some immediate connections to do and there are several items that will be
mounted in and around the electrical panel that are not yet accounted for, but these are minor things by comparison. There is the
4-channel amp to feed the four speakers, the battery charger, the ST6000 Autopilot, the inverter that makes AC out of DC, and
probably one or two other things. Small jobs easy to wring out when I get to them. The two drawings above are the schematic I
did on Corel Draw for the wiring. As I did each wire, I changed the color to red. As I got near the end, I worked harder and harder
to find the right size wire ( all wire is oversize whenever possible ) in the right length.
In these pictures, there are things that I wish I could describe accurately, but I can't. The clips are packed full all around the boat.
My back is killing me. The boat is a mess of cut pieces of wire that need to be picked up and tossed into the scrap copper bag. The
piles of extra wire outside are now truly 'extra' and will be put into the truck with the last 320 pounds of lead and brought to
Scrap All in Sarasota. All around the boat there are places where I need to cable tie the big bundles of wire. But, it's done. Another
big, intimidating job is done. I want ice cream.
September 2, 2009 - Seafood Shack Marina - Cortez, Florida

Today I have to clean up the mess I made dragging wire around everywhere and cutting and stripping and blah blah blah. Putting
those 'blahs' all in a row freaks out the Spelling/Grammar checker here, but I don't care. That's right, I'm a bad boy and I scoff at
spell checkers. I'm going to get a faux leather jacket and a wash-off tattoo. Then it will be time to make the first pattern for the
fiberglass panels and cut and install the first piece. That piece will be going on the inside port aft cabin bulkhead adjacent to the
electrical panel and chart table. It's where the battery charger, inverter and auto pilot will be mounted and it's time to mount
them. I also have a couple of other circuits that I'd forgotten about that I need to run wires for. One of them is the NMEA GPS
location signal that needs to get from the GPS to the VHF radio. Another will be a selector switch that will allow me to connect
the cockpit speakers either to the computer, the cockpit VHF radio, or a plain automotive AM/FM unit, should I get one. I don't
have one right now, but it's a good possibility, so I'll provide the option now. To the list.

1.) Make patterns for fiberglass panels.  
2.) Make and install all remaining border pieces in ceiling.
3.) Install 'dryer' bilge pump.   
4.) Make and install engine bilge catch-net.   Working
5.) Install shower sump pump.
The hard drive where I stored all my writing and the information for
publishing and the cover art mysteriously died. No electrical storms,
no impacts, nothing. It just died. And not while running, it simply
refused to turn on. I tried everything and finally gunned it into the
trash. It cost about three hours of my time this morning and would
have REALLY pissed me off if I didn't have the most important stuff
backed up. Still, I lost A LOT of work and material.

Anyway, I got the pulley from East Coast Battery. They are
unbelievable. And, I already pulled the old one and put this one on,
but, I still have some work to do. The pulley is a larger diameter, so
the tach will have to be re-calibrated, and the adjuster arm no longer
fits, so I'll have to remove it and step under the village Chestnut tree
with the other blacksmiths and beat it into submission.

I also cleaned up the boat some and started on the patterns, as per
picture left. I'll make that full - the entire bulkhead - but I only have
enough fiberglass for the top 4 feet or so.

Meanwhile, I'm backing up everything on the computer and getting
ready to strip it out and start over again from scratch. It needs it once
in a while. I won't replace the old 80 Gig hard drive that ate the big
one, I'll just make complete dual DVD backups of everything and
transfer over to a much newer 250 Gig unit. I still have 3 500 Gig and
2 250 Gig, more drive space than I need. The computer is another
thing I need to spend some time straightening out before I leave here.
I got 100 more pounds of lead separated and into Eddie's car and I got about 150 pounds of extra wire stuffed into my truck
for the trip to Scrap All. Eddie has an electric impact hammer I can use tomorrow to finish tightening the alternator pulley.

It's 9: PM and I'm just finishing making another chart and going over more of the wiring so I can order whatever final parts I
might need to complete the electrical panel. I'm going to have to make a few minor modifications to some of the wiring I've
already completed so I can have those circuits available at the control panel with switches and fuses. To simply have a fuse
holder in the engine room will be a huge pain in the ass is a fuse blows in a busy situation. It's only a couple of circuits and I
really have to do it.

I'm a little wore out now, so I'll watch a little TV and go to sleep. That damn hard drive wore on my good nature pretty hard. I
darn near worked up some spit and let fly.
September 3, 2009 - Seafood Shack Marina - Cortez, Florida

I've started off this morning designing the electrical panel. I'm just getting started but I immediately see the need to complete
some ideas - work out probabilities and finalize a few extraneous little notions that might become a pain if I don't. For example,
one of the big ones: I have 6 speakers installed on the boat - 4 in the main saloon ( as if there were other saloons ) and 2 in the
cockpit. Rather than deal with amplifiers in every device I want to feed to the speakers, I got a nice, simple but powerful 4
channel automotive amplifier, which I will feed whatever I want to listen to into. So, I have two semi-complex switching issues
around the amplifier. On the input side, I want to be able to select the TV, the computer, and have room for an automotive
radio/MP3 player and possibly, the aft VHF radio. On the amplifier output side, I want to be able to either switch TO the cockpit
speakers from one of the pairs inside, or just include them with the others. It would also be nice to just be able to switch the
cockpit VHF to the cockpit speakers, independent of what a guest or grandchild might be watching on DVD down below. That's
one issue.

Secondly, once I get everything sorted out and functioning properly - the issues with the raw water pump and windlass will not
be the last - I'll want the option to connect various electronic components with the NMEA-0183 protocol to try things out. For
instance, sending a heading signal to the autopilot. That's later on down the road, but I want to consider the possibility of
needing a bit of space in the electrical panel. The list.

1.) Make patterns for fiberglass panels.  
2.) Make and install all remaining border pieces in ceiling.
3.) Install 'dryer' bilge pump.   
4.) Make and install engine bilge catch-net.   Working
5.) Install shower sump pump.
6.) Tighten alternator pulley and make new belt tensioner.   
7.) Dig mastic out of truck to attach first fiberglass wall panel.
8.) Cut out and hang wall panel.
9.) Mount and connect Inverter, battery charger and ST6000 Autopilot.

It either rained or threatened to rain all day today. It's still going on. I borrowed Eddie's electric impact gun ( 350 ft lbs of torque
) and tightened the alternator pulley, then chased dual crankshaft and water pump pulleys all over the world via the Internet. No
help. I did discover that the crank pulley lists for $145, which is a real eyebrow raiser. I'm going to see if I can get these things
used off dead engines. I also struggled unsuccessfully with the alternator tensioner bracket and, while I wasn't able to complete it
today, I did come up with a viable solution.

So, what did I do all day? I worked on the computer, and with the camera, and I began the design of the electrical panel.
The actual color of the panel
will be closer to this blue in the
text boxes that are actually
meant to represent two opening
doors that will have all the
switches and circuit breakers
mounted on them.

They will be hinged on the
outside edges and latched in the
center, making working on the
electrics very easy.
For some reason, the colors
from Corel Draw to Corel
Photopaint to IrfanView Photo
Optimizer to Yahoo SiteBuilder
do not translate well at all. This
is the color I started with and
that weak Teal is what it ends
up like. Anyway, this is what
I've done with my day. The
drawing is actually 30 inches by
20 inches and has all the
dimensions on it. You'll see it
when it's done.
I got food so I won't have to eat potatoes tonight and tomorrow. I just noticed - through an email tracking code - that the raw
water pump has already been delivered here. It was yesterday noontime when the woman called to be sure they were shipping
what I wanted, and it got here today. The pulley fro East Coast Battery got here in a day, and the raw water pump from Keenzo
got here in a day.
September 4, 2009 - Seafood Shack Marina - Cortez, Florida

I had this done hours ago, but the minute I did something ( I forget what ) the computer rebooted and I lost it.
I picked up the new pump this morning to ogle it and there it
is, stage left. List is $435. It cost me a little under $300, so I
can't complain. This is a new model with an impeller kit
available and that's a much better situation than I had with
have been at a different time.

I have one of the headaches this morning, but I took the pill so it isn't
bad and I'm getting work done. I'm going to post this now and get back
to it.

Unbelievable - the parts for the Ideal Windlass motor are here. There
MUST be shipping advantages being given to high volume users to get
business in this economy. The prices are great and the service is FAST!

I have been concentrating on the electrical panel so I can start laying it
out and cutting the holes. I've also done some other odds and ends
around here, but I've just about finished all I'm going to do as far as
the engineering drawing.
Now, I have to get back to actual work on the projects and get a leg up on some of these jobs, and I STILL have to find some
engine pulleys.

I just went on a pulley-finding mission and did some asking around at 1.) one of the biggest and best auto repair places in
town, and 2.) the only VW dealership I know of around here. No deal at all, no chance, give up, cannot get the water pump
pulley anywhere. $95 and several weeks will get one with a different part number that MIGHT be the same size from the
dealer. The big wrecking yard in town says, "I don't know if we got any of those out there, but you're welcome to look and
take it off if you find it, then come pay for it." I KNOW I had at least a couple of those pulleys extra when I was in Naples. I've
got to empty out that truck again and check whatever buckets of parts I have left to see if I'm making a big fuss searching for
something I already have. If that doesn't work out, I'm going to have to investigate the 'have them made from aluminum' option.

I picked up a few more brass plumbing fittings from Home Depot and went through the 'Self Checkout' line and the same thing
happened that always happens when I bring brass plumbing fittings there. The machine pulled a gun on me and demanded
MUCH more money than the fittings were worth.

I started wire-brushing and cleaning the components to the windlass motor and will have that system back together again
tomorrow. I finally tightened the squealing belt on my trucks power steering and air conditioning. That's much better now.

I found a place on line where I can order just about any size or shape of any of hundreds of metals and alloys. It appears that
I can get the two pieces of T6061 Aluminum alloy to make the pulleys for about $65. If Jim's neighbor will really machine them
up for me for low to no money - or something reasonable - I will have a fabulous set of dual pulleys, as well as a newer,
better, lower ratio drive for the new raw water pump. I've been making blueprints for the pulleys today. Any good machinist
will want accurate, complete prints to work from. I can't get too ahead of myself before it's confirmed, though.
I got the windlass motor all rebuilt and the top of the windlass re-assembled. The motor was a particular pain and if I ever do one
again, I'll pull the field pieces out to make the job easier. It's ten to 6 in the early evening and I'm beginning to show signs of
slowing down. I haven't seen Jim and Cynthia all day, but they might be down in Sarasota for the big powerboat races. It's been a
perfect day for it and the big thunder boats keep going past us here at the Seafood Shack, with accompanying helicopters and
spectator sedan cruisers who have been throwing huge wakes all day long.

Randy went out with a friend on Moondream and Joe went out with his Arabesque. They probably went to the spectator fleet to
anchor and get too buzzed to make it back, so they'll spend the night there and watch the main features tomorrow.

I got a lot done today and I'm not done yet. I'll make up the added features for the Ideal gear case - the vent and the water trap -
and install the motor and wire it up. It's all inside and I need light in the bow anyway, so It really doesn't matter if it's dark
outside or not. I think I'll go put the motor on now.

Well, that sucks. After everything, it looks like the motor has a problem. I'm going to have to take it apart again and see what I
can figure out. The motor slows down in
'up' mode, and little puffs of smoke kick out the back. The advantage of my remote
control is that I can climb right into the bow and watch the windlass from below. I surely hope I don't need a new $600 or $700
dollar motor. I'll figure it out. It's 7:40 PM now and I'm thinking I'm almost done for the day. I've still got tools to pick up on the
dock, though. Rats. Damn motor.
September 5, 2009 - Seafood Shack Marina - Cortez, Florida

Wow, I started working on the prints for the pulleys this morning and haven't stopped to do anything else - except go outside and
chit-chat with Geoff and Paul for a while. I DID notice that Jim and Cynthia are here and I want to have a set of prints ready for
him so he can show them to his neighbor and see what the story is. Will he do them? How much money? Etc. I'll show you the
first one. This was done on CorelDraw. The more you use it, the easier it gets. But it's still hard.
September 6, 2009 - Seafood Shack Marina - Cortez, Florida

Okay, on with the show. I was a bit discouraged by the lack of success with the windlass last evening, but I'm all better now. If
there is a short due to my less than stellar work in attaching two of the new brushes to the field windings, then I will correct that.
If it is the field windings themselves, then I just haven't reached the critical cause of the failure, but I'm hot on it's trail. I have
other stuff to do while I drain the oil back out of the gearbox so I can take the motor back off and work on it outside.

Espin came by yesterday and picked up his mail and mailbox key. His boat is gone and he has the cash and is scouring Florida for
a new boat. He had the 31 foot Southern Cross 'Ajax' for 16 years and 'kept' the name - basically striking an agreement with the
new owner that he would rename the boat. That's not a hard sell to a new boat owner with a boat named 'Ajax', you know, when
he really wants to name it, 'At last! At last! I finally got my boat at last!' Yeah, you laugh. I've seen worse names on boats. Boats
that shudder, creak and groan whenever they hear their name over the radio. Espin will probably only be in the area until today
or tomorrow, then he's off to Miami to check on some boats over that way.

Jim and Cynthia were away at 'Moore's' restaurant yesterday and I finally caught up with Jim last night and we went over the
whole proposition to see if his neighbor would be interested in taking on the project and finding out how much it would cost. I
think I should also send along one of my homemade apple pies - no, I mean, one of my homemade business cards with the
website - in case he's interested in seeing the entire project.

I've lost track of the list. Where was I?

1.) Make patterns for fiberglass panels.  
 Working again
2.) Make and install all remaining border pieces in ceiling.
3.) Install 'dryer' bilge pump.   
Working again
4.) Make and install engine bilge catch-net.   Stalled
5.) Install shower sump pump.
6.) Tighten alternator pulley and make new belt tensioner.   
7.) Dig mastic out of truck to attach first fiberglass wall panel.   Done
8.) Cut out and hang wall panel.
9.) Mount and connect Inverter, battery charger and ST6000 Autopilot.
10.) Use Eddie's ( borrowed ) Sawzall to trim cabin side boards.

Oh, yeah, that's right. I remember now. Well, that panel needs to be done, and while we're on that subject, I re-checked the prices
on that stuff at Home Depot and got a mild shock - $32+! - 3 sheets for $100, less tax and awkward stumbling dealing with the
wobbly stuff.

I've got the windlass motor off and ready for me to have at it, and I took a run out to Walmart and Advance Discount Auto and
Home Depot and Ace Hardware and got a bunch of little things that I need for the windlass repair ( that I tried to do without
yesterday ) and a few other jobs on the boat. I made up the water trap feature for the windlass and that's ready to go on and I
came THIS ( --->l  l<--- ) close to buying three more sheets of that FRP paneling, but I'll wait until the head is empty again. I also
dug that mastic out of the truck and I'm about to try a touch of it on a scrap piece of the FRP panel to see how well it works. It's
2:25 PM and the day is racing by.

I cleaned up outside and attended to a lot of little things, then watched TMZ and some golf before taking the windlass motor
apart. I could not get the field pieces loose at all and know when to fold my hand in those situations. It's possible that I spotted
the problem, but there was only tiny evidence because I wasn't willing to overdo the initial testing. My experience with these
things is that if something is wrong, forcing the issue is double wrong. I'm going to use some gasoline to clean out the inside of
the motor housing and then some acetone. After that, I'll take apart the connections I made yesterday and do them over in better
style, insulating them completely. Then I'll take care to insulate all the exposed field contacts inside with some high-temp stuff I
picked up today. One more assembly and a test - and if that doesn't do it, I'll give Ideal a call and talk to them about repairing the